Turkish-Led Team Summits Shishapangma

Dear EverestNews.com,

Hello! Hope you are safe and well. Attached is my Shishapangma summit report plus pictures.

İ will be climbing Nanga Parbat this summer.

All the best from Turkey,
Tunc


SUMMİT AT SHİSHAPANGMA (8013 m/26,290 ft) 30 April, 2013

I was able to climb the main summit of Mount Shishapangma (8013 m) without using supplemental oxygen. This was my 9th 8000 m peak (with 2 times Mount Everest, using different routes).

We started our expedition 13 April from Katmandu, Nepal. Using the caravan route of Kodari border- Nyalam (3700 m), Lalung pass (5150 m), and Chinese Base Camp of Shisha (5000 m). We started on the Tibetan plateau together with a horde of yaks to reach the Advnaced Base Camp at 5700 m by the Shishapangma glacier. From there, passing a small icefall at the glacier we made one acclimatisation trip to Camp 1 (6350 m) and Camp 2 (6850 m), and started to look for an opportunity in the weather. This presented itself as a less windy day soon at 30 April.

Using a high camp at 7100 m on the corridor, we climbed to Camp 3 (7400 m) and traversed the Austrian route or İnyaki variant on the heavily glaciated NE face of Shisha to take on the east ridge to the main summit (thus bypassing the north ridge and central summit route). By 12.15 30 April, we climbed a few knife-edge sharp ridges on ice to gain the main summit of Shisha, a not-often climbed route to a tricky summit. My climbing partners included Chhang Dawa Sherpa (Mingma Sherpa’s bro, he finished all 14 8000 m summits with Shisha). Also, an Ecuadorian friend Santiago Quintero, Romanian Alex Gavan, and Mingma Thunduk Sherpa and Nima Lama Sherpa.

The ascent was generally much windier and colder than we thought and it took us a round trip of 15 hours or so to do. Our luck, the snow and ice conditions were very fine, with no avalanche danger in the NE face. Thus I was able to make the first Turkish ascent to the real summit of Shishapangma. Our climb took a total of 20 days to complete, and Tibet -as usual- was very, very cold, a real deep freezer! [Photos below]

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